First prep your skin by using cleanser, toner, genifique concentrate. Tran uses Secret de Vie Toner and Moisturizer. It's amazing what it has done for her skin she says and she wont use anything else. I Love it too but use it only cause I got it for free. It's extremely luxurious and you pay for the results. Your skin felt amazing Tran!Maria, my pro team artist, prepped the skin (below) with all the favorite skincare Tran is currently using and a few new items she has been wanting to try.
Next Foundation in a neutral undertone is applied to half the face in Teint Idol Long wear foundation using brush # 2. Tran wants a full coverage with a natural finish. This is achieved with the moderate to full coverage from the liquid and also the Dual Finish Powder Foundation to set the liquid. Next Waterproof concealer is applied to the eye lids and under eye area. This not only conceals but also is used as a waterproof base for eye shadows. Next apply bronzer around the edges of the face in the shape of a 3. Forehead, under the cheek bone, and jawline. Also apply this to the sides of the next for a more slimming look. This make you look 3 dimensional and also can take off the appearance of 10 pounds. Use brush # 6. Next look at the color on the chest to find a blush shade and apply to the apples of the cheeks. Cappucine was chosen as a perfect match and swirled on the apples of the cheeks using the same brush # 6. Last highlight the tops of the cheek bones and collar bones with the new Serum of Light, Eclat Miracle, using your fingertips. The only Serum that goes on after makeup. Can you tell (below) which side of the face has been perfected?
Maria applies the other side using foundation brush# 2. Start where there is the most discoloration. Blend away the makeup with the clean side of the brush and use less product. Tran loves using this brush.
Always brush down. Everyone has a light blond hair on the face. Going up will coat the hairs making you look fuzzy like a peach. Going down will make your skin look it's best.
Use your bronzer to contour and not your blush. I don't want you to have pink or peach racing stripes! Here Maria applies the blush in circles just to the apples of the cheeks. Smile to see the apples.
Now Brows will make your eyes pop automatically. Don't neglect them. The reason why they frame a picture is because it makes the picture pop. Her I use Taupe Brow pencil. Tran has dark brows already. Sable or Black would be too dark. Use a softer color just to sculpt and draw in little dots to create the look of fuller thicker brows. The pencil comes with a brush on the other end to comb through them erasing any mistakes and also too much powder!
Next we want to eliminate any redness around the eye... especially on the water line. Use a Khol pencil (Non Waterproof) for the inside of the eye. Waterproof doesn't stick here well because its wet inside the eye. I used Black Ebony and used a soft pressure with a finger to roll it away from the eye ball.
Kohl liner doesn't last that long inside the eye. I have a trick. Kohl is a clay pencil and will set with a little shadow on top of it. Use a dark black eye shadow with a small angle brush and tap the liner inside the eye with the shadow on the brush. I used dual end brush # 18 with The New Black Eye Shadow. It has glitter sparkle and looks like diamonds all over the lash line! Then use the same brush and blend your crease color Snap under your lower lashes to smudge, smoke and soften the lower lash line. This actually will make your eye look bigger. Sorry, if you thought opposite it's usually because your mom told you that so that you wouldn't wear that much make up.
Next use the same Khol Black Ebony Pencil and draw it messy all over the lower eye lid. The more you put on the more dramatic your look will be. It doesn't need to be perfect.
Next use the other end of brush # 18 and with nothing on it smudge in a patting motion the pencil up into the crease and into the waterproof concealer. Nothing will fall because it's not a shadow... OH WOW! A smokey eye that actually isn't messy! Tap up into the crease until the black pencil is blended. Go up as high as you like... but don't go too high. don't want you to look crazy! LOL
Next start setting the concealer and eye with your lightest shade first. I used Gaze, a very low shimmer and brush # 17. Don't apply this every where... you want to keep certain areas tacky so that the other colors will grab to it and not fall down. Use this just under the arch of the brow and in the inner corner of the eye. blend it softly.
Use the same brush and shadow to amplify your check highlight and make it look like there is a light shining down on you from heaven! ah ha ha Tran... I knew you were an angel!
Next the crease color is applied using the same # 17 brush. Keep the eye open so you can see what you are doing. Don't start here (below). Where ever the brush touches first it's the darkest. Starting here can make it look like your eyes are too close together.
Instead start in the outer crease with Snap eye shadow and apply with the eye open back and forth like a windshield wiper. The brush will stay perfectly in the shape of your crease... Even if you don't have much of one! Just don't close your eye! Apply this color 2 or 3 times to help blend the darker colors later.
Next for the crease use the same brush and choose a black, grey, dark brown or dark blue to the very outer corner of the crease. I used Garment eye shadow. Go back over it with the snap color to blend it out. I don't want to see sharp lines here. It will be the only thing people see instead of the entire look!
Set the entire lid using a packing motion with brush # 18 and The New Black Eye Shadow. Don't sweep the shadow on because it will fall and all those little sparkles will fall all over too. Press it into the black liner and it is set for the night, the next morning, and maybe even the next night too!
Apply a second coat to make it even more dark and dramatic!
With hardly any pressure at all and with nothing on the # 17 brush blend the edge of the black into the crease color back and forth in a windshield wiper motion!
Now, any shadow that come down below the outer corner of the eye will make the eye look droopy or sleepy. Wipe up using your foundation brush from the corner of your eye to the corner of your brow. This also will give you a guide to follow when winging out liquid eye liner!
Apply liquid Artliner in Noir to the upper lash line and wing it out slightly. Use the side of the felt tip instead of the tip to get a perfect clean professional look.
Next apply 1-2 coats of Virtuous Curling Mascara to the lower, then the upper lashes.
Clean anything that fell in the process with your foundation brush. The more you practice the less mess you will have to clean up! PROMISE!!! I practice this everyday on women!
And here you see (below) one eye smoked out. It's amazing how much bigger and brighter the eye looks. Now it is up to Tran and Maria to do the other side together. This will assure me that Tran can do this anytime she wants to. Thanks Maria for paying attention! ha ha ha
Now eyes are pretty dark, Tran has never done Black for a smokey eye. I'm not going to scare her anymore by applying a dark or dramatic lip color. Use a nude pencil and fill in the entire lip. Here is Bronzelle and it's also waterproof. It comes with a brush on the other end to help soften and or smudge.
Next apply the moisturizing lipstick in Coquette. It has sunscreen as well and feels amazing on. The lid stays on in your purse due to magnets. I love it when it closes... it's like closing the door of a Bentley! Lips are plumped with moisture, pretty, and protected!
Last apply our new lip gloss from our spring colors in 383 to the center of the lip. It not only adds the shine to make the lips look fuller but also has a great soothing feel. Tran loves it!
TRAN!!! You are beautiful and make a great Morning MakeUp Call Beauty of the Week. Thank you so much for letting us teach you and now everyone this Dark Smokey eye! Practice!!! I can't wait to see you again for another look! Thanks Deb for booking Tran with me, Thanks Nordstrom Topanga, and thanks so much Maria for being an amazing makeup artist and assistant!
Here is a video of Tran... on her LUCKY day! Love you Tran!
DARAIS
D,
ReplyDeleteI am so relieved! I find that many artist have difficulties with Asian eyes especially if they don't have the "crease". I am a loyal follower of your blog! Keep up the great work.
Nadia